Before you go: Japan Rail Pass

I will not mince my words here. Buying the Japan Rail Pass was definitely one of the best things we did for our trip. I don't know how many times I said "I'm so glad we have the Japan Rail Pass" in the three weeks that we were there, but it was a lot. And it was true! Firstly, it will save you money and secondly, it pays for itself in convenience.

WHAT IS IT?
The Japan Rail Pass allows you unlimited use of all Japan Rail services including the Shinkansen bullet trains (except the Nozomi super express). It is available for 1, 2, or 3 weeks, either in ordinary coach class or first-class Green car. It means you don't have to buy individual tickets and you can also reserve seats in advance*. I used the first-class pass on a trip to Japan with my mother before, and on this trip we just bought the ordinary coach class pass. Though the first-class pass was nice, I don't think it's really necessary. Our Frommer's Guide to Japan however says that you might want to consider it if you are travelling during peak travel times, like Golden Week or New Year's as you might find it easier to reserve a seat.

Japanese Shinkansen "Bullet" Train

WHERE TO BUY IT
Basically the Japan Rail Pass is only available to foreigners visiting Japan as tourists so you need to buy it before you leave for Japan. You just need to check out the Japan Rail website and they'll tell you where you can buy it in your country. Only official Japan Rail Pass dealers can sell it. We are in Berlin and there are only a few dealers in Germany. The nearest one was with a company called Jalpak in Dusseldorf, across the country. I was a bit worried about them posting the tickets but they arrived in two days. It was all very efficient and very prompt as to be expected in Germany!

WHEN YOU ARRIVE IN JAPAN
Actually what you get when you buy your pass is what they call an Exchange Order. This is to be 'exchanged' for the rail pass when you arrive in Japan. Any of the major airports in Japan such as Tokyo Narita airport or Osaka Kansai airport have Japan Rail Travel Centre. Here you will be able to trade in your voucher for your pass. Note: you have to do this exchange within 3 months of the date of issue of your Exchange Order. Also when you doing the exchange you must specify when you want to start using the pass within a one-month period.

Beware: you may not find the usual level of customer service at the JR service desk at the train stations. We found when we were pre-booking our seats that the service veered from indifferent to cold. After experiencing such super customer service everywhere else it was a bit surprising. On the other hand the porters that check your tickets as you enter and leave the station couldn't have been more helpful and patient. We found the younger porters had better English, or were maybe more confident in their English, but all were very helpful and courteous.

Lastly, there are regional rail passes available which, depending on your itinerary, might or might not suit you better. Have a look at the Japan Rail website for more details on these and other discount tickets.

As I said, we were really happy that we invested in the Japan Rail Pass. Not only because it saved us money in the long run, but also because it saved us on hassle, which when travelling in a foreign country is always a blessing. We were particularly happy that we could use the pass in Tokyo, using the JR Yamanote Line, which goes by most of the key sight-seeing areas in the city.

*TRAIN TIP
If you are a non-smoker it is well worth your while reserving a seat in advance on longer journeys, especially if you are travelling at busy times. We found that the non-smoking carriages can get booked up quickly on the weekend. Also, ask for a carriage far away from the smoking carriages as the smoke tends to drift, and if you are a smoke-hater like me it can make for an uncomfortable journey.